Great pizza nights are 20 percent recipe and 80 percent atmosphere. Start with the dough: make it a day ahead, cold-ferment it in the fridge, and let it come to room temperature an hour before you stretch it. Cold hands and a hot oven are the whole secret.

Set up a topping bar with three sauces, four cheeses and a rainbow of vegetables, then let everyone build their own. Bake each pizza for six to eight minutes in the hottest oven you have, slice, and serve straight onto wooden boards.

Finish with something sweet — our cinnamon dessert bites were invented for exactly this moment — and keep the playlist loud. That is the entire formula, and it has never once failed us.